Sunday, April 13, 2014

Mulungo in London

Looking out over London and the rainbow stretching across the eastern half of the horizon, I felt surprisingly happy as the buildings grew bigger and bigger as the plane landed after the 11-hour flight.  Stepping off the plane, I dreaded the 14 hours ahead of me.  It’s one thing to travel for an extended period of time, but simply waiting around for that long is some sort of mind torture.  After missing my plane in Des Moines (due to a flight schedule change I was unaware of) I was forced to adapt to this new itinerary including a 5-hour layover in Chicago and this layover in London. 

People told me getting out and back into the airport between international flights was a hassle, so I had decided to just wait in the airport.  The wall of screens displaying what flights were leaving from which gates in which terminals now sprawled out in front of me.  The latest posted flight would depart three hours before mine.  Shortly after my head dropped, a soft English voice asked if I needed help.  I turned to look into the large doe-eyes of a young, attractive Indian woman.  Things seemed better all of the sudden.  I explained my situation and she assured me it wasn’t difficult to get out of the airport, and my checked bag would continue as planned.  I thanked her and moved my feet toward customs.

After my passport was stamped, my money exchanged and my bladder emptied, I started asking around about the best means to travel to the city.  A small bar in my university town holds the name London Underground, and I was happy to hear the Underground offered the best travel for the price.  I bought my ticket and headed down two escalators to the station.

A train of cars pulled up to the station on the minute posted on the schedule (a person grows accustomed to this in the States, but you learn a whole new appreciation for punctuality living at the whims of public transportation in Mozambique).  The train made several stops over the next hour, both above and below ground, and I took a closer look out across London for the first time.  The buildings our car passed were compact and almost always stood within a meter or two of, if not attached to, at least one other building.  Yet, green blazed amongst the concrete on many of the building and the occasional park popped up as the train passed.  When the train stopped at Piccadilly Circus, I stepped into the underground station and made my way up the steps to the street.

After quickly consulting a map, my feet took me a block to the east and onto the pathways of Hyde Park.  As I made my way through the green grass and bald trees, I noticed the people jogging, the pets running around, the squirrels climbing up trees, and perhaps my favorite part, no trash on the ground.  The park laid wide open around me and I tried to take in as much as possible as I crossed, but awaiting me on the far side of the park was the site I had come to this park for: Buckingham Palace.

Ornate carvings in marble and limestone stood everywhere around the square, along with statues carved of the same stone or molded from gold.  The palace itself faced the square with a regal aura, the architecture reminding me of some of the old buildings at Iowa State.  After a short time and a few pictures, I made my way through another park with a pond and plethora of birds of varying species.  Also, I saw a man feeding squirrels who would climb his legs and take peanuts from his hands.  From the park, I passed to the square viewing Parliament and listened as Big Ben sounded off twelve tolls for the noon hour.  I crossed the Tames and strolled the southern bank past the Eye of London before crossing back over to the north side almost a mile from Parliament.



Then, I decided I should think about returning to the airport, but before I headed back, I wanted to find a place to get a plate of fish and chips and a couple pints.  What sort of tourist would I be if I didn’t get fish and chips in London, England?  The search led me up and down a few streets, which only promised expensive dining, until eventually I spotted a somewhat darker alley.

As I passed by the shops that lined the snugger, darker alley and drew closer to the light on the farther side, I started to give up hope, when I looked through a large window into a darker room.  Next to the bar in that dark room, a pale, attractive face looked back at me.  After staring for a second, I registered the face as belonging to a female bartender and the room as a pub.  I entered the door promptly.

Established in 1777, Hall & Woodhouse was a small pub with small furniture too, which seemed to add character and space to the room.  The lighting was dark, but calming.  Dark wood made the entirety of the structure with the exception of a few brass fittings and the glass windows, and black and white pictures covered the walls.  The bartender had dark brown hair and was dressed in black from head to foot, which explains why I only saw her face from the alley. 

            “Do you serve food?”
“You can take a look at our menu.”
“I’ll have a seat and a Guinness, then.”

She guided me to a short stool next to a short table in a corner and turned to pour my Guinness.  While the front of her outfit was completely black, the back of her long-sleeved shirt opened to show her back.  Amidst the ubiquitous subtlety of the bar, the sudden shock almost made me dizzy, and I quickly seated myself.  When Sam brought my pint, I ordered the cod and chips, started writing about everything I saw in London, and heard noises from the next room.  A doorway just a foot away from me led to a small compartment, perfect for a group of friends, called “The Snug”.  The sounds alluded to a couple who were trying to make good on the name of the room they occupied.

My food came up an elevator system I had not seen used in any other restaurant, likely due to the small area of the bar.  The fish was passable, but not memorable.  The Amstel Light that followed the Guinness tasted well.  When the second pint was empty, I paid my bill, said thank-you and goodbye to Sam, and headed back to the Underground that would take me to the airport where I would wait for a short time to board my plane for Johannesburg.

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